Power and Opulence, 1980–1996

Evening Wear in Louisiana, 1896–1996

Online Exhibitions


The casual bent of the 1970s took a sharp turnabout for the "power look" of the 1980s. Opulent displays mirrored the success and wealth of the decade. Some women spent thousands of dollars on gowns for Carnival balls. However, styles in Louisiana became more restrained in the mid-1980s after a major downturn in the state's economy due to the sharp decline of the oil and gas industries. Women bought fewer new gowns and recycled old ones. Some even turned to 1950s vintage gowns, which had the double attraction of bargain-basement prices and a strapless "retro" look. These trends segued into the 1990s when understated styles ruled.

Into the 90s

Conspicuous consumption characterized the styles of the 1980s with particular emphasis on fashionable labels. Most designers began to manufacture every component of an outfit, from undergarments to accessories. Department stores reorganized their displays to include designer boutiques where shoppers could focus on one collection at a time. Clothing took on a more grown-up look. The broad shoulders that were the mark of the aggressive business suit for women also appeared on form-fitting evening dresses. Sequins, beads, and embroidery were popular accents. In the 1990s a tremendous range of styles, shapes, and lengths continued to be acceptable, including reinterpretations of fashions of earlier periods.

Evening gown and coat, Nolan Miller, ca. 1980. Gift of Mrs. Harold H. Stream, Jr., née Matilda Geddings Gray, Worn by the donor. Louisiana State Museums 1987.027.07a-b.
Evening gown and coat
Nolan Miller, ca. 1980
Gift of Mrs. Harold H. Stream, Jr., née Matilda Geddings Gray
Worn by the donor
Louisiana State Museums 1987.027.07a-b

Dresses incorporating layers of sheer chiffon became very popular at the time this ensemble was made. The donor wore it to the Krewe of Osiris ball in New Orleans when her son, Harold H. Stream III, reigned as King. California-based designer Nolan Miller was married to the donor's daughter, Sandra, for a time and designed many gowns for New Orleans Carnival queens in the 1970s and 1980s. He gained international fame while serving as the head costume designer for the 1980s television series Dynasty and launching a fashion line inspired by the clothes he designed for its female stars.

Evening pantsuit, SAZ by Surjit and Adarsh Gill, India, ca. 1983, Roger Johns, New Orleans, retailer. Gift of Mrs. Moise S. Steeg, Jr., Worn by the donor. Louisiana State Museums 1993.042.08.1-.2.
Evening pantsuit
SAZ by Surjit and Adarsh Gill, India, ca. 1983
Roger Johns, New Orleans, retailer
Gift of Mrs. Moise S. Steeg, Jr.
Worn by the donor
Louisiana State Museums 1993.042.08.1-.2

Hostess pants were introduced into women's wear in the 1930s for informal at-home entertaining. During the late 1960s and early 1970s, pants first appeared in evening wear ensembles as a comfortable alternative to short dresses and miniskirts. The donor wore this outfit to the opening of Canal Place Shopping Center in New Orleans. The glitter of sequins and bright colors were very popular in the 1980s.
Evening dress, Saks Fifth Avenue, 1984. Gift of Mrs. Isidore Cohn, Jr., Worn by the donor. Louisiana State Museums 1993.062.06.
Evening dress
Saks Fifth Avenue, 1984
Gift of Mrs. Isidore Cohn, Jr.
Worn by the donor
Louisiana State Museums 1993.062.06


The donor of this evening dress wore it to the opening of the exhibition Sun King: Louis XIV and the New World at the Louisiana State Museum. The silhouette is characteristic of the power dressing style of the period with its form-fitting waist and wide padded shoulders.
Evening gown, Rebecca Rothschild, New Orleans, Spring 1995. Gift of Ms. Rebecca Rothschild. Louisiana State Museums 1995.106.1.
Evening gown
Rebecca Rothschild, New Orleans, Spring 1995
Gift of Ms. Rebecca Rothschild
Louisiana State Museums 1995.106.1

New Orleans-based designer Rebecca Rothschild studied in New York and worked for Bill Blass before returning home to launch her own label. The Fashion Group of New Orleans awarded Rothschild its prestigious Alpha Award for her Spring 1995 ready-to-wear collection, which included this elegantly draped silk crêpe gown. Rothschild worked very much in the couturier tradition, custom fitting gowns for her clients. Distinctive features of this dress include the "fish-tail" train and the ribbon-like treatment of the bodice that creates an illusion of bareness.
Sketch for evening gown, Rebecca Rothschild, New Orleans, Spring 1995. Gift of Ms. Rebecca Rothschild. Louisiana State Museums 1995.106.2.
Sketch for evening gown
Rebecca Rothschild, New Orleans, Spring 1995
Gift of Ms. Rebecca Rothschild
Louisiana State Museums 1995.106.2
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Evening Wear in Louisiana, 1896–1996
Online Exhibition

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Power and Opulence, 1980–1996

Power and Opulence, 1980–1996